Advice for Specific Scalp Conditions and Hair Types
Advice for Specific Scalp Conditions and Hair Types
Click on any of the case histories below to read professional advice from Dr. Zavod and Andrew about caring for scalp and hair issues similar to your own.
Quote: "I have really stubborn dandruff. After two hours at the salon, the last thing I need is a case of flakes ruining my $200 highlights!"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: Try shampooing once a week with a product containing salicylic acid to clear flake buildup. On other days, shampoo with a gentle product containing zinc pyrithione to control itching and flaking.
Andrew: To keep fragile, color-treated hair from becoming damaged, try to stick to no more than four shampooings a week, and only wash once per session—there's no need to rinse and repeat. Daily washing and failing to use a conditioner to seal in color can accelerate fading. Many clients with color-treated hair worry about the effects that medicated shampoos will have on their hair color or texture. I suggest they protect their color by looking for light-tinted or clear medicated shampoos. And always follow up with a rich and moisturizing conditioner. Neutrogena has several excellent conditioners for protecting dry and damaged hair.
Quote: "I swim every day, and my dandruff just keeps getting worse. Is chlorine preventing my dandruff shampoo from working?"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: Chlorine does not reduce the effectiveness of dandruff shampoos. It's more likely that daily exposure to pool chemicals is having a drying effect on your scalp, causing it to itch. If you are swimming every day, I recommend buying a swim cap to keep your scalp and hair protected. If you don't wear a cap, make sure you thoroughly cleanse your scalp with a good shampoo after swimming. A shampoo with salicylic acid would be a great choice for removing scalp buildup and cleansing the hair.
Andrew: Try wetting your hair with regular tap water before entering the pool. Because your hair is porous, it will absorb the tap water instead of the chlorinated water in the pool. After shampooing, be sure to use a conditioner and avoid brushing your wet hair. Use a wide-tooth comb instead, and gently work out tangles by moving from the ends toward the scalp.
Quote: "My hair tends to get oily quickly, yet I still have dandruff. Aren't flakes a sign of a dry scalp?"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: An oily scalp may make dandruff worse, because the microorganisms often present on the scalp thrive on the natural oils found there. It's important to cleanse the scalp regularly to remove buildup. Look for shampoos containing coal tar or salicylic acid to help keep flaking under control.
Andrew: Frequent washing is critical to keeping hair free of oil. If you wash daily, look for a mild, daily-use shampoo to use on nontreatment days. A lightweight conditioner can help keep frequently washed hair healthy. To keep oily hair from looking "flat," apply conditioner on the ends of the hair, not on the scalp. This can help strengthen and repair dry and damaged ends.
Quote: "When it gets cold, it snows-dandruff, that is! Why does winter weather always make my dandruff worse, and what can I do about it?"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: Winter weather poses a double whammy for those with dandruff. First, low humidity can lead to a reduced amount of oil on the scalp, which may keep flakes from sticking. Because they are being shed more readily, the flakes become more visible throughout the hair. I recommend that my patients with mild, seasonal dandruff use a regular-strength dandruff shampoo with coal tar to provide relief from scalp flaking. When flaking is accompanied by winter itch, choose a dandruff shampoo that also contains menthol to sooth itchy scalps.
Andrew: Winter weather calls for extra care for hair. Those soothing, extra-hot showers you're tempted to take are hard on dry and brittle hair. Use warm, not hot, water when shampooing. Also, choose an extra-moisturizing conditioner to help reduce static cling and wind damage, especially with long hair. Quick anti-static tip: After styling, spritz your hairbrush with a little hairspray and brush through hair.
Quote: "I'm a chef in a busy restaurant, and sometimes the kitchen's like a sauna-without the relaxing benefits! My hair's suffering, but my dandruff's thriving-help!"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: No doubt you're washing your hair daily to remove the grease and smoke particles you pick up from your work environment. You may want to consider using a daily shampoo that contains zinc pyrithione to relieve and control scalp itching and flaking. You should also protect your hair and scalp with a hat or non-porous hairnet while working. Contrary to popular belief, wearing a hat will not aggravate dandruff.
Andrew: Heat plus humidity is a recipe for hair disaster! Because you're shampooing daily, you may want to consider a product that contains both zinc pyrithione and a conditioning agent, such as a 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner.
Quote: "I've been surfing for 10 years. I've also had dandruff for 10 years. My surfing's improved, but my dandruff hasn't. Got any suggestions?"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: First the good news: surfing doesn't cause dandruff! However, salt water and too much sun could irritate an already compromised scalp. Your chronic, stubborn dandruff may require an intensive initial treatment to gain control over the flaking, followed by a routine of regular care to prevent flare-ups. I recommend a rotational therapy: shampoo twice a week with a product containing salicylic acid to clear flake and sebum buildup, and shampoo on the other days with a product containing coal tar to control flake formation. By the way, be sure to cover exposed skin with a sunscreen that provides both UVA and UVB protection when you're out on the water!
Andrew: "Beach hair" is a cool look, but damaged hair isn't. Always rinse the salt water completely out of your hair after swimming to avoid the rough, dry feel. Use a medicated shampoo with menthol to help cool any post-surfing scalp itch. Always follow-up with a conditioner to restore hair back to its pre-swim, healthy look.
Quote: "I already have dry hair. Won't dandruff shampoos just dry out my hair and scalp even more?"
Expert recommendations: Dr. Zavod: How often do you shampoo your hair? If you don't have heavy flaking or scalp buildup, you may want to avoid daily shampooing. When you do shampoo, don't "rinse and repeat"—once is enough.
Andrew: Dry hair is the most common complaint among all my clients. I explain that the best way to treat dry hair is with a deep conditioner. You may want to try a hair mask once a week. For best results, leave this intensive moisturizing treatment on wet hair—concentrating on the ends—for several minutes before rinsing. Avoid blow-drying or scrubbing your hair dry with a towel. Always run fingers and towels gently down the hair strands to avoid further damage. And finally, eliminate gels, sprays, and other styling products containing alcohol (read the list of ingredients on the label). The drying effects of alcohol in many leave-in products can damage the hair shaft.